Stills from latest Teahm Beahm project, "More"

Here are a few stills from our latest project, "More."

Automatic Fire Suppression System for Home and Small Business

I have been searching for several hours for an automatic (unmanned) fire suppression system for my music and film studio.  I’ve got a lot of stuff (equipment, data, media, etc.) that I’d like to keep safe from fire, even when I’m not around, so just a fire extinguisher won’t do.

I started my search with Halon, because when I was a kid I saw a fireman do a demonstration at an Indian Guides meeting with this stuff, and it was AMAZING.  Evidently Halon destroys ozone like nobody’s business though, so it was banned in 1994.

The replacement is called Halotron, and is often used in auto racing and marine applications.  It’s great because there is no thermal issue (like with CO2, which can get really cold), and it leaves absolutely no residue (like dry chemical or foam, which will DEFINITELY damage equipment).

It’s strange that there are not more options for this out there (or, ANY options, as the case may be).  This seems like something that anyone with an expensive home theater or computer set up could really use.  And a delivery system for a relatively small canister of Halotron seems like it would be incredibly simple.

There is some indication that ceiling mounted “spot” fire extinguishers exist (basically an extinguisher you hang from the ceiling with a heat activated sprinkler head), but I can’t find a trustworthy looking source (lots of weird options from India, but that’s all I can find).

There is also a guy currently selling three Halon ceiling mounted fire extinguishers on eBay from his old business, so that is also an indication that these systems exist, or at least used to, but I’m definitely not going to buy his old, used extinguishers to protect my valuable equipment, media, data, and building.

It baffles me that it would be so difficult to find an item that seems like it would have tons of applications for residences and small businesses.

Anybody with some information on such a thing, please post in the comments!

HTC One – maybe the best but a 4MP camera?

I recently broke my original Droid Incredible screen after nearly 3 years of constant, hard use.  I spent about two weeks researching phones to find a replacement.  So what was my final choice?

The Original Droid Incredible!

I ordered a new digitizer with the front housing, and it took me about 10 minutes to replace the broken glass.  I am still upset that Ice Cream Sandwich was recently released for the Thunderbolt and NOT the Incredible, but I guess I’ll just have to get around that by finally rooting the phone and installing a ROM that takes me to ICS.

The truth is, every phone currently on the market either sucks for one reason or another, or is the size of a dinner plate (which is its very own reason to suck).  Hopefully the manufacturers of smartphones will quickly realize that people who want tablets will buy them.  People who want phones need something that will fit in their pocket and can be operated with one hand. “Phablets” suck.  Period.  Even the moniker makes me feel like a douchebag just for saying it.

I was excited to see the new HTC One announced, but I’m on Verizon, and they are the only carrier on the planet who won’t be supporting the HTC One.

Turns out it doesn’t matter though, because the HTC One only sports a 4MP camera.  HTC is claiming it doesn’t really matter because they’re “ultra pixels” (ooooooh!), but while these “ultra pixels” might look fine on a screen, especially for being only 4MP (they may even look as good as 8 “regular” megapixels), you can’t print at the same size as an 8MP image.

I actually use my Droid Incredible for photography and fine art printing. The HTC One camera just won’t get me to where I need to be.

Taken with my Droid Incredible, somewhere over Germany. Printed on Canon archival canvas with archival Canon inks:

Charlie Rose David Letterman Interview

I forgot to post about this when I saw it the other night… well, quite a few nights ago.

Charlie Rose interviewing Letterman after the Kennedy Honors.  One of the better interviews I’ve seen on television in a long time.

Here’s a link to the full 32 minutes on Charlie Rose’s website.

http://www.charlierose.com/view/content/12721

I often think Letterman is an asshole, and maybe he is, but this interview really offers some insight into what he’s achieved and how hard he has worked (and still works). He also talks about being an asshole, and maybe trying to be less of one.

This interview was aired with an interview of Led Zepplin (I guess also part of the Kennedy Center Honors).  What should have been much more interesting was, well, not really very interesting at all.

Green Glue Acoustic “Glue” Sound Dampening

I am finishing up building a music/film-editing studio, and one of the final steps of construction (before I start appointing the interior and gadgets) is finishing the walls… which is to say, finishing the acoustic enhancement to “typical” walls.  This involves two layers of 5/8” drywall with a special layer of “magic” in between.

The magic is called Green Glue.  The name is a bad choice (Green Goo, perhaps… or maybe Oobleck, if they  could get the rights from Dr. Seuss), because it’s not glue at all, and this seems to confuse a lot of people.  You can’t use GG to adhere the two sheets of drywall.  It doesn’t work anything like construction adhesive (i.e. Liquid Nails).  This actually comes up quite a bit in forum discussions, but the fact of the matter is that if you used Liquid Nails in the same way you would Green Glue, it’s likely that your acoustic dampening would actually be reduced instead of increased. Liquid Nails becomes rigid when it dries, so it is possible that it would simply turn your wall into a giant drum head, actually increasing reverberation and reflection (no absorption of sound waves, and instead more reflection).

Green Glue claims that their product converts vibration into heat.  It remains flexible, and thus absorbs sound waves/vibration rather than allowing them to reflect back or transmit through the wall material.

My research regarding Green Glue actually began with this “why is it any different than Liquid Nails?” question –I was wondering if I could use Liquid Nails in the same way one would use Green Glue.  You can sift through hundreds of pages of third party technical data like I did, or, you can go the quick route and take my word: Green Glue is worlds apart from Liquid Nails.  If Liquid Nails was an elephant; Green Glue would be a Blue Heron (or perhaps a slug, considering the sticky goo factor).

After deciding that Green Glue was worthwhile (and worth the rather high price when compared to Liquid Nails, which, again, is not even REMOTELY similar), I ordered a 5 Gallon bucket of the stuff from Amazon… probably a mistake.  I highly recommend going a more direct and productive route.  The attention and specificity you will get from someone who knows what they are selling (like Ted White, co-founder of Green Glue, now owner of The Sound Proofing Company) are worth their weight in gold… and you will actually get a BETTER PRICE on what you need (not to mention complete and detailed instructions, vs. just a bucket in a box).  The only downside is you have to actually communicate with a human. The Sound Proofing Company won’t sell you anything until you fill out a little online form telling them about your project, and then wait for someone to get back to you. Not a good system for impatient people who don’t like talking on the phone –like me (which is why I ordered from Amazon before realizing the above route might be better).

I paid $215 plus $15 shipping for the 5 gallon bucket on Amazon.  Ted tells me he sells a 5 gallon bucket for $198.  Here’s the kicker though… on Amazon, the special applicator (a 32 oz., specialized caulking gun called a Speedload Dispenser) sells for $56 plus shipping.  Ted let me know his company sells the gun (which he helped develop) for only $29 (though their website indicates otherwise, so you’ll need to contact them directly).

I actually became acquainted with Ted because I was trying my damnedest to avoid purchasing that applicator.  I didn’t want to “throw away” $60 on an applicator that I would use once and never again.

I was hoping I could use a trowel to apply the Green Glue, and this method is actually encouraged by several “licensed” resellers of the product.  I can assure you, the guys who invented the glue and a bunch of other people who chimed in on the message boards get REALLY upset when you talk about using a trowel.

The consensus is that you are supposed to use two loads of Green Glue from the Speedload Applicator with the tip cut to 3/8” and a bead applied in a spaghetti type pattern.  PERIOD.  No other application method will deliver the desired results.  I’m serious, guys.  The people who claim to know the most about this product will get REALLY PISSED OFF if you try and go any other route (I got pretty beat up on several message boards). Seriously. They get really mad… which is weird, because the manufacturer of the product and many, many other official resellers say it makes NO DIFFERENCE whatsoever what pattern you apply the glue, and also what thickness of bead should be used.

For what it’s worth, the written materials that come with the tubes tell you to cut the nozzle to 3/8” and apply one load in one direction and the second load in a perpendicular direction (no mention of spaghetti or any sort of randomness). The Speedload Applicator comes with nozzles pre-cut to 3/8”.

The literature that comes with the applicator also clearly states: “…Lines, squiggles, plops, etc. The pattern isn’t an issue, it’s the amount being used. The Green Glue needs to be roughly even across the board.” They even show one example pattern that is extremely uniform… which supports the use of a trowel. And one of the photos of the application shows Green Glue literally just “plopped” onto the drywall.

The “makers of Green Glue” (the people now running the company) could clearly care less about the application pattern of the product.  They also think 1/4” is fine for the bead.  Or 3/8”. Or whatever. Another site, SoundIsolationStore.com, says: “A larger tip opening on the nozzle to speed up application will still yield the same results as applying Green Glue Compound with a smaller bead.” They go on to say: “No specific coverage pattern is necessary to ensure excellent results.  Apply at least semi-evenly over the correct amount of square footage per tube and you will succeed.”

This YouTube video DIRECTLY from Green Glue Company, LLC (“copyright Green Glue Company, LLC 2008”) shows a person “spooging” Green Glue onto drywall in streams and globs.  Not the spaghetti technique.  Not the two directions technique. And very much NOT a uniform bead of Green Glue (anywhere from what looks like 1/4” thick to maybe nearly 2” thick).

This video directly from the Green Glue Company website regarding installing GG with the speed gun applicator from a 5 gallon bucket says you should cut the nozzle to 1/4” (not 3/8” like I was told is a MUST). It should be noted for shits and giggles that  the hole the guy cuts in the nozzle in the video looks like you could drive a truck through it.  This video directly from the GG website regarding installing with 28 oz. tubes also says 1/4” (not 3/8”). Both videos show the person applying a straight line “2 to 3 inches from the edge” all the way around the perimeter of the drywall sheet before treating the rest of the board. The “5 gallon bucket” video also says you should pull the plunger on The Speedload Applicator 2-5 times before starting in order to lubricate the gun, but makes no mention of adding any lubricant.  To my knowledge, the guns don’t come pre-lubed, and in fact, the instructions that came with mine make a rather lengthy point of how to add WD-40 at various places to lubricate the gun before beginning. This 5 gallon bucket video also notes that one tube of GG is only about 70% as effective as two tubes.  Both videos go on to say “the application pattern does not matter so long as you have distributed the compound evenly across the drywall.” I got SO MUCH SHIT on various discussion boards for asking WHY the spaghetti pattern was the only way to do it. (Also, the idea that the application pattern doesn’t matter leads me to believe that applying with a trowel is totally fine).  The video also says that no treatment of the first layer of drywall is necessary (I mudded all the seams on my first layer, and I don’t regret spending the extra time), but that the second layer should be staggered (to overlap the previous layer’s joints).  Finally, they recommend a quarter inch gap is left between all edges of your second layer of drywall so you can apply acoustical sealant –but then make no mention of whether or not you are supposed to mud over that, or if you then just paint the “acoustic goo” sealed seem, which I can only assume would be extremely obvious looking (not a “finished” look). [UPDATE] From SoundIsolationStore.com: “Step 4. Seal Your Wall Once the topmost layer of drywall is attached, seal the wall thoroughly using Green Glue Sealant or a comparable high quality acoustic caulk. Tape and mud your seams as you would normally do, and prepare for your wall finishing.” If you have staggered your drywall so that the top layer seams are flush against a solid piece of drywall (not lined up with the lower layer seam), I’m not sure why this would be necessary, but it is what it recommended. The literature that comes with the Speedload Applicator says, “Dedicated high performance rooms such as recording studios and theaters often specify the use of acoustical sealant in corners and along the floor. You can alternately use drywall compound to make sure all gaps are filled.  The goal is to make the room has as air tight as possible. [sic]” It should be noted that the Speedload literature also goes so far as to say THEY DO NOT RECOMMEND taping and mudding the first layer of drywall.

NOTE: All videos and literature say you need to apply the drywall with screws within 15 minutes of applying the glue.

For what it’s worth, I still think there’s merit to the trowel method if you are applying Green Glue in cooler temperatures. I wouldn’t try using a trowel when it’s warm out or if it’s warm in the room (the GG will be too viscous), but when my studio was at 50 degrees Fahrenheit and the product was much thicker and tackier, the GG spread perfectly with a trowel (see photos below).  A 1/4” tooth would be perfect for Green Glue’s recommended bead size, and applying it in two opposing directions seems like it would work great.  It’s not a totally random pattern, but according to Green Glue, that really doesn’t matter.

Ted White says Green Glue needs to be applied at around 70 degrees Fahrenheit for proper compression, and while I believe him (especially since he was around for all the testing of the product), the literature that comes with the glue and on the GG website makes no mention of this.  Somehow the temperatures here in Colorado reached 70 degrees Fahrenheit this January (no kidding!), so I ended up using the Speed Gun Applicator, but had the temperatures remained cold, I would likely have spent less time trying to bring the ambient temperature of the studio-under-construction up to 70 degrees, and would have gone with the trowel (ESPECIALLY since the Green Glue site and many others say the thickness of the bead and the application pattern are both completely irrelevant as long as you use the correct amount and get even coverage).

Green Glue applied with trowel (ambient temperature around 50 degrees Fahrenheit). This stuff will definitely make a sticky mess if you’re not careful.	The same board two months later. Bead width intact. Product “dried” (sticky to touch, like a Whacky-Wall-Walker, but leaves no residue). Notice how the product is now green instead of just minty white.

…

No MSETUP4.exe File on Canon Install Disk

I recently purchased a PIXMA Pro 9000 Mark II series printer for large format photo printing.

When I went to use the install disk (in case there were any “goodies” that would improve the performance of the printer over just allowing Windows to find the driver online), there was no AutoPlay screen (Windows Explorer simply opens and expands the CD ROM directory).  When I checked the manual, the only information regarding this possibility states:

If the program does not start automatically, double-click the CD-ROM icon on the computer. When the CD-ROM contents appear, double-click MSETUP4.EXE.

However, there is absolutely no “MSETUP4.EXE” file on the disk (before you ask, of course I have “show hidden files” ticked in the Explorer options).  There is no any *.exe file on the disk. There is an XML file in the root folder called MSETUP.plist, but that doesn’t do me much good.

Thanks, Canon.

Manually going through the disk directories, I see that there is an application folder that includes folders for Easy Photo Print EX, Easy Photo Print Pro, Inkjet Extended Survey, and Solution Menu.  Looks like I’m not missing anything.

I’m also assuming I’ll get a more up to date driver by finding it via the web vs. using the one on the disk, so… as usual, the disk that comes with your Canon printer is a complete waste of time.

Thanks again, Canon.

Sennheiser HD-280 Headphones Review

I was looking for affordable headphones for personal listening while traveling that could also be used for work in the studio and in the field.  I purchased the HD-280's after several months of research, and I am extremely happy with my purchase... so much so that I will be outfitting the studio with several more pairs.

Most of the headphones I own are for "professional" application, and thus require more power to drive the speakers. At 64 ohms, these cans are easily driven by my iPod and sound great without requiring a headphone amp.

There are a lot of reviews regarding the sound of these phones, so I'm not going to spend a lot of time on audio "flavor."  The HD-280's are nice and flat --minimal audio coloring, which makes them perfect for a studio tracking situation.  There is plenty of bass, but they aren't bass heavy. After a lot of research, I don't think there is a pair of headphones out there that can stand up to the "true" audio quality of these phones at this price point.  They could be used for mixing in a pinch, though I will always use a higher quality set of headphones for mixing (I rarely mix with headphones, but for reference, when I do I use Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO’s at 250 ohms).

For tracking, the HD-280 can't be beat.  And at under one hundred dollars, there is no question that these are the most affordable, quality option for outfitting a studio.  However, even if I had unlimited money, I can't imagine purchasing anything but these in quantity.  The attenuation is fantastic (they are tight to the user's head and leak almost no audio), and I get little to no audio bleed even when tracking super-close vocals.  While they *can* take a lot of abuse, at this price, they are practically disposable (even though the ear pads, cord, and headband pad are easily replaced), so I don't have to get so testy with the jackass lead guitar player tossing them on the floor after a session. [smile]

Because of this fantastic attenuation, we will also be using these to record audio in the field for film and video applications.  I first received these while on vacation, and I was actually using them NOT PLUGGED IN to simply create silence.  They are on par with the ANSI ear protection I use while working in the woodshop.

The coiled cord will keep the cord alive longer, but it is a little annoying because of its weight. If one is not careful, they will also tangle more easily than a straight cord. I will likely explore options for a straight cord, especially when using these while traveling.

The cord is made to be easily changed, and the included instruction manual has clear and specific instructions for how to do this.  However, it's not as easy as simply unscrewing or unplugging the cord (my Beyer-Dynamic DT-150’s have a 6 pin connector you simply unplug); you need to take apart the housing of the left speaker and unplug the cord from the inside.  There is no soldering involved (the end of cord plugs into a spot on the inner board), and the entire process should only take a couple of minutes.

There seems to be a lot of disagreement as to whether these phones are "comfortable" or not.  I chose to ignore the people complaining that they were uncomfortable, even painful, after about an hour of use and decided to take a gamble.  Due to the tight compression of the pads against the head, the complainers were right.  While I don't think my ears stick out abnormally far, I do find that the inside of the headphones (the speakers) press up against the top of my ears, so I do need to take a break every once in a while.  I would say this is simply the price of such a tight seal against the head (and worth the trade).  It's actually also a good "timing device" to remind the user to take a break every once in a while; when they start to get uncomfortable, it's probably time to give your eardrums a break anyway.

I will eventually have to purchase more appropriate "personal travelers" that are a little more comfortable (lighter, less pressure on my ear tops), but for now these are fine --I just have to give my ears a chance to breathe a little more often. They definitely aren’t the best choice for traveling phones (too heavy, too bulky). Perhaps the "in-ear" options can never be beat for this reason (weight, comfort, and size).  Luckily these will continue to fulfill a role in the studio and in the field, so I don’t need to worry about buyer’s remorse regarding personal headphones.

The padding is leatherette (like all of my Beyer-Dynamics) and will likely need to be replaced after a couple of years (I recently had to replace my DT-150 pads), but due to the popularity of these headphones the replacement pads are readily available (have been for years, and likely will be for many years to come).  The padding for the headband is made of the same material, and also readily available.  There is a "Ziploc" type fastening system that runs the length of the entire headband (on top) for easy and secure fastening.

I love that the speakers are rotatable 90 degrees.  They lay flat on the table when you set them down, and you can solo one side or the other (though they don't flip 180 degrees as some reviewers have suggested so you have to pull them away from your head a good deal to do this).

While they don't get "tiny," its nice that these full-size headphones can collapse to about the size of a 750ml bottle of Crown Royal (though I prefer Pappy Van Winkle bourbon).