Jeep Liberty KJ (and other Jeep) Skid Plate Frame Rivnuts

I purchased a (third! 😆) 2006 Jeep Liberty KJ CRD that must have started life as a base model, because it only has the forward-most skid plates.  It's missing the skids for the transmission pan, the transfer case, and the gas tank.  Luckily I have a donor CRD that I could pull the missing skid plates from, but when I went to install them, I found that the frame rails where the skid plates attach do not have threaded holes for the M10 skid plate bolts.  There are simply hex shaped holes where the bolts should thread in.

What I found is that these locations need a M10 1.5 10.9 steel hexagonal rivnut (also called a rivet nut or nutsert).

I checked with my local Jeep Dealer parts dept. and they had none in stock when using a 2006 Jeep Liberty for the search (part #6506644AA).  They searched nationwide and were only able to locate two at a dealer in TX and one at a dealer in IL.  Those were literally the only factory rivnuts my dealer could locate for a 2006 Liberty.  

I should have just purchased from eBay, which is where I ended up purchasing them later.

When I widened my search for a Jeep M10 rivnut, I found another M10 nutsert for the 18-25 Jeep Wrangler JL & Gladiator JT (with no mention of the 2006 Jeep Liberty KJ CRD).

The Mopar part number for this M10 1.5 10.9 Steel frame rivet nut found in the search above is 06511076AA.  Various Mopar and Jeep dealer sites on line stated that this would absolutely NOT work for a 2006 Liberty.

When I called my local dealer back and used the parts number for the rivet nut for a 2025 Jeep Wrangler, they had plenty in stock at $8.20 each (pretty high price, but I decided to pay the premium for the 10.9 steel over the zinc coated "medium steel" non-factory versions I was able to locate online).

As you can see from the two photos, the rivnuts do look different.  What I found was that the Wrangler/Gladiator rivnut will work in SOME places.  I can verify that the rivnut that works with the Wrangler and Gladiator can be used for KJ frame rails, but NOT the cross member that runs under the back of the transmission pan (the cross member that holds the back of the oil/tranny plate as well as one side of the transfer case plate).  This beefier looking rivnut definitely fits in the hexagonal holes of the frame rails running down each side of the vehicle.  In a couple places it was a tight fit, but slid in when I wiggled it.

So I ended up using the Wrangler (slightly larger) rivnut for the two locations in the frame rail, and the Liberty (slightly smaller) rivnut in the cross-member locations. 

For the record, I could find mild steel zinc coated M10 rivnuts online, but I decided I wanted to use the original 10.9 steel rivnuts originally spec'd for our vehicles.

 

Largest Tires for CRD Jeep Liberty KJ Running Stock Set Up

I recently purchased a 1972 25' Airstream Trade Wind Land Yacht to refurbish (more on that later), and also needed new tires for my Jeep (they were pretty much bald).  I was planning on doing a 2 inch lift, and thus had been researching larger tires for the lift.  Now that the lift cash has gone into the Airstream purchase, I will be running stock set up on the Jeep a while longer.

There seems to be a lot of debate as to what the largest tire is that you can put on your Jeep KJ while running stock set up, so I am posting my real world experience here.

The "smallest" (there are of course a lot of different combos with width, wall height, rim size, etc.) Dueler A/T Revo 2 or Destination A/T (after researching price combined with customer reviews, this is where I landed) you can get in the “LT” version which is 10-ply instead of just 4-ply (a must for me with the trailer and off-roading) is LT245/75R16.  In order to get to the stock LT225/75R16 from Bridgestone/Firestone, I would have to purchase Transforce tires, and I don't like what I see from the reviews of those tires, especially in ice/snow and the amount of road noise they emit.

I chose Revos or Duelers because they seem to get good reviews for on and off road use without being too loud on pavement.  They also seem to get highest marks among similar tires (on/off road) for their handling of wet and icy pavement.  The Destination A/T’s were about $200 cheaper than the Revo 2’s, and from the reviews I’ve read and customer testimonials, it didn’t seem like the Revo’s were worth the extra cash (which I can now put into the Airstream).

Since there was some question if the 245’s would fit, the Firestone guys offered to mount the larger tires and let me drive around for a couple days before deciding, but just driving home this morning I'm sold.  The only rubbing I get is when I turn extreme left.  I can still do a u-turn in three lanes (I love my Jeep wheel base!) without rubbing, so you really have to cut to the max to rub.  In fact, just backing off a tiny bit stops the rubbing and really doesn't affect the radius of the turn but a few inches.

The hard right turn doesn't rub at all.

What is being rubbed is just the inner plastic lining of the wheel well, and when it does rub, the rub mark is only about an inch high (see photo with Chapstick for size reference).

I'm sure mileage will vary for specific vehicles as suspensions can vary a bit, but for my particular '06 CRD, while it's a bit tight, the LT246/75R16's definitely work!  You can see from the photo below of the front tire that it’s a bit tight, but like I mentioned, this is the smallest LT tire I can get in the Dueler/Revo, so I’m going with it!

Thanks to all who have posted on the Jeep forums in regard to this issue, as it has helped me with my tire purchase quite a bit.

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Installing an Auxiliary Input for an RBQ Dodge/Chrysler Factory Stereo

[see simple Bluetooth update at end of post]

I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD (diesel).  It has the in-dash 6 disc changer with Sirius satellite radio (which I will never use) part # P05091507AE.  This was the penultimate of the stereos for the vehicle in 2006 (the RB1 nav radio was the ultimate) and is designated as the “RBQ” unit.  However, it COMPLETELY fails to address MP3 audio (brilliant).

Every iPod/auxiliary input adapter out there says “NOT FOR RBQ STEREOS.”

Awesome.

I don’t want to replace my factory stereo with an aftermarket head unit, because I think they look like crap, they are more likely to be stolen, and they won’t work with my integrated steering wheel controls.  I’m kind of assuming there may be another factory stereo I could purchase that will work with my steering wheel controls and already HAS an auxiliary input (or at least plays MP3 CD’s), but it’s a bit like the proverbial needle in the haystack (I searched a while and gave up).

So, I’m trying to find a DIY solution to address the problem.

This post (http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=308955) shows the installation of a TERK XM XMDCHY100 in a 2005 Dodge vehicle with the RBQ radio.

This unit is actually used to install XM Radio, but the adapter includes an auxiliary input so would work for my purposes.

I was not able to find this model (sales discontinued on every listing I found).  For reference (if you find one), it looks like it was priced at around $100 new.

This post (http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/how-add-aux-input-factory-6-disc-622653/) seems like an even better solution, because it only involves a five dollar part from Radio Shack (a five pin 1/8” jack).  It does involve quite a bit more work, however, so some readers may be intimidate by all the wiring and drilling for dash mounting involved.

The mod is performed on a vehicle with an external CD changer, but it seems like the mod would perform the same splicing into the XM Radio connection (turbo04 confirms this with his post here –worth a visit).  You MUST use the five pin 1/8” jack (NOT the 3 pin), because the 5 pin jack will send a signal interrupt to the unit when a cable is plugged in (telling the head unit to use the jack instead of the satellite radio). 

Also this mod (adding the 1/8” jack) will only work when there is an XM Radio unit hooked up, otherwise, the head unit will not “see” that XM Radio is a valid source, and just skips over that connection when you’re hitting the mode button.  Furthermore, there seems to be some contention as to whether or not the XM Radio must be functioning in order for this mod to work.  Many users report that without actual audio from the XM Radio (whether it’s the preview channel or an actual subscription), the stereo will not recognize the auxiliary input jack.  Without performing the mod, I’m not sure how to confirm this.

Finally, over the coarse of researching this post, I found ONE SINGLE available unit that will supposedly work for my factory stereo.  Here is the link I found: http://www.ipodcarpros.com/p63/PA11-CHR/product_info.html ($115)

Here is the same item on Amazon:

http://www.ipodcarpros.com/p63/PA11-CHR/product_info.html ($107)

and Crutchfield (though a search for your vehicle WILL NOT return the item on their site):

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_581PA11CHR/USA-Spec-iPod-Interface-for-Chrysler.html?showAll=N&search=PA11-CHR&skipvs=T ($130)

The first “most helpful” review on Amazon is from a 2006 Jeep Liberty user, so I am getting my hopes up. Another ‘06 Liberty reports that the unit won’t charge his iPhone 4 (might be iPhone 4 specific since he says it DOES charge his Nano).

This unit is more expensive than the 1/8” jack mod, but it does have the advantage of charging your iProduct and allowing you to use your steering wheel controls to access your iPod (though it only allows you to scroll through your first 5 play lists since it’s treating your iPod like a CD changer!!! [update] --evidently you can select which 5 playlists to access). 

The PA11-CHR does have RCA input jacks, so with a simple RCA to 1/8” adapter you’ve also got a regular auxiliary input.

After reading all 22 reviews, there are quite a few reporting low hum or static, but one person suggests simply putting the unit in a static bag to solve the problem, so I think I may go for it. Some users also report that this unit switches over to FM Radio randomly, but most note that it doesn’t happen that often.

FWIW, several retailers selling this unit online say that it will not work with RBQ stereos, but other sites (and users) confirm that it will.

There was apparently something called the “Mopar iPod Integration Kit” available at one time, but damned if I can find it for anything older than 2008. [update] The only 2005-2007 model I’ve found is being sold for $318… almost the price of a new Jeep! This would most certainly be another great possibility if you are able to find one at a decent price (works with all models including the RB1 nav radio and RBQ). –just found the model number necessary Part # 82209616AD; the msrp was $175.

These are other numbers I’ve found for the Mopar integration kit for the ‘06 Liberty: JEP82209616AC, 82209616AC, 82209616.

Here’s a post on WKJeeps.com that shows all the iPod kits available from Mopar.

http://www.wkjeeps.com/ipod.htm

[UPDATE 5-17-15] I can’t believe how cheap some tech things have become.  I recently purchased a Bluetooth dongle for less than $5 from Amazon.  I plugged it into my Jeep’s USB charger and then plugged a 3.5mm cord from the dongle to the aux port in my PA11-CHR.  Now every time I get into my Jeep, my phone automatically finds the Bluetooth dongle and I can stream music (and calls) wirelessly to my factory stereo.  The iPod still works as well (just turn the stereo off and back on to switch from aux port to iPod port –whichever is active will take over).

Fantastic.

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Replacing a Jeep Liberty Actuator Pin and Ignition Switch

I love the Internets. Even more so, I love the people who take the time to share their knowledge to help out their common man (or woman or transgendered individual).  Social responsibility is a large part of why I share these tidbits of information that hopefully make someone’s life just a little bit easier.

Last week I pulled into the Post Office and ran inside to drop off a package.  When I returned to my beloved Jeep, I turned the key and… nothing.  Actually, there were lights, but they were accompanied by silence.  All the dash lights and everything came on, but there was no starter crank, not even the dread “click-click-click.”  Just silence.

Rather than start screaming obscenities, I pulled out my Droid and searched “Jeep Liberty Turn Key No Sound.”  There were a decent number of returns, but six or so down was a post on the wonderful LostJeeps.com with the title “06 CRD Won’t Always Crank… Problem Found!"

Throughout the thread were many suggestions, but the one that seemed to fit the bill regarded the actuator pin, a long plastic pin in the steering column that connects the actual key cylinder to the ignition switch (which seems like a ridiculous part… and even more ridiculous is the notion of making it out of plastic –this is a part that gets cranked/tweaked over and over and over again –plastic –really?).

There was a diagram and a suggestion to jumper the starter relay to bypass the ignition process.  I found a small piece of copper wire, jumpered the relay pins, and sure enough, little Thumper started cranking like a champ.  I pulled the relay back out and drove home, saving myself the time, hassle, and cost of a tow!  Very cool.

I actually spent the next week starting the car this way while waiting for parts to arrive.  I would simply turn the key to the “run” position, pop the hood, place the jumpered starter relay in its slot, and the starter would crank and fire up the engine.

If you’re doing this, just remember to pull the relay out before driving away, or the starter will keep cranking as you’re driving down the road.  Also, you don’t need to “seat” the relay all the way into its slot.  The jeep will fire up as soon as the pins hit the contacts.

Note that several people in the Lost Jeeps thread mentioned dealers that wanted to replace the ENTIRE STEERING COLUMN rather than service the part.  $1200 in parts and service vs. a little less than $40 in parts to do it yourself in about an hour.  This is EXACTLY the reason it’s a good idea to do a little research before simply turning your keys over to the dealership.

Surprisingly enough, it turns out that the METAL in my actuator pin housing had broken, not the actual plastic pin.  It looks like the metal was brittle and crumbled like the “pig iron” you often see installed for drains in old houses.

Here is a link to the part you will need:

Dorman 924-704 Ignition Switch Actuator Pin

Several people also suggested changing the ignition switch since it’s cheap and you’ve already removed it during the process, so I went ahead and did that as well.  Here’s a link to the part:

Standard Motor Products US447 Ignition Switch

Here is a link on youtube that illustrates the entire process.  They do a great job of announcing the step you’ll be undertaking, then showing you how it’s done.  Great tutorial. I believe they are actually changing the pin on a PT Cruiser, but the process is nearly identical.

I also highly recommend reading the post on Lost Jeeps to prep yourself with general knowledge before undertaking the work!

Below is a gallery of the photos I took while changing things out.

Replacing Jeep Actuator Pin and Ignition Switch VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

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