Sunday, November 2, 2014

CowboyStudio Universal Heavy Duty Tripod Dolly FT9911

20141102_154630I purchased my Cowboy Studio Heavy Duty Tripod Dolly for $90 from Amazon here

Currently I am using it with a Bogen/Manfrotto 3046 tripod that I use as the base for a 12 foot Kessler Crane.  A “real” heavy duty tripod with wheels for my crane would be nice, but this is working for now.

As with so many of these inexpensive DSLR Filmmaking items coming out of China, this appears to be the same (rebranded) item as Fancierstudio Universal Heavy Duty 150lb Max Video Cinema Film Studio Tripod Dolly FT9911 and ePhoto Universal Heavy Duty 150LB Max Video Cinama Film Studio Tripod Dolly FS9911. I'm not sure if there is *actually* a difference between the FT9911 and the FS9911 (note the "T" and "S"). This one (CowboyStudio) is ten bucks less than the "Fancierstudio" and fifteen bucks less than the "ePhoto." Do not confuse these with the "NON-heavy-duty" dollies also available from these three brands for around thirty-five bucks.

I have to say, I'm pretty impressed with the build quality of this dolly. When it first arrived I set it up and put my tripod on it, then climbed on top of my tripod and saw little to no flex (I'm about 155lbs.). Of course, the wider the spread on your tripod, the closer the feet are to the wheels, and the more weight this thing can hold (if the weight is nearer the center there will be flex).

After I climbed down I mounted my 12ft. Kessler Crane on the tripod and loaded it up with a camera and counter weights, and it works great. Smooth rolling and no issue with that amount of weight. I am very pleased.

20141102_155228(shown with only the 8 ft. arm)

In the Amazon reviews of the other brands' products (assumed to be the identical item), someone mentioned that the spread is not adjustable, but it absolutely is. The dolly remains the same size, but the "foot clamps" slide back and forth on the three struts and can be clamped down at any point on the strut.

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With the legs collapsed, the span on my tripod is around 24”.  That is about 6” shy of what the dolly can accommodate.  You should be able to get a tripod with a 30” spread onto the dolly without issue.  The outside diameter (wheel to wheel) of the dolly is around 35”, maybe a tad more, so you should be able to roll the dolly at it’s widest point through a 36” door opening.

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The ~4" wheels are a good rubber, soft enough to absorb a little shock and roll smoothly but not *too* soft.  It also seems like they’d be pretty easy to swap out (just a nut and bolt) if anything ever went wrong with them, or if you wanted to use a different wheel.

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The dolly folds up nicely and comes with a sturdy, zippered nylon carrying bag.  At first I didn’t think I’d ever use the bag, but I’ve already used it several times and was happy to have it.  It’s surprisingly tough for a freebie.

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When you unfold the dolly and spread the struts, there is a bolt (with a knob) in the center that screws down to lock the struts in place (it doesn't just "click" into place). It seems plenty sturdy, and the dolly definitely can’t collapse with the pin/bolt screwed down.

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I wish the wheel locks were metal instead of plastic, but they seem like they'll last at least a while if we're careful with them.

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For $90 (actually listed at $85 the day of this posting), I'm definitely impressed with this tripod dolly.

Cutting the Cable: One Year Later (a real world experience)

It’s been nearly a year since I cut the cable, so I thought I’d provide some thoughts on my experience, what has worked, what hasn’t, what I actively use.

For some time, the center of “cutting the cable” was a good HTPC (home theater computer).  This was where the physical media was streamed from, and also the access point for the television to actually show programs/media from the internet.  While a home theater PC is still a great tool, it’s getting easier and easier to get by without one.

I am set up with a NAS (network attached storage -in my case a Thecus N5550 with 5x 3TB RED WD drives for a total of around 11TB of media storage), and a Roku stick on each of our TV’s (one in the bedroom, one in the living room, one in the kitchen).  We also have the original television antenna that was installed on our roof around 1963, and it does a fantastic job of pulling in nearly 30 HD broadcast channels (for free). The broadcast television signal is processed through an older TV Tuner Card (Hauppauge 1196 WinTV-HVR-1250) that I purchased in 2010 and have installed in an older computer (from 2007) that we use as an HTPC (home theater computer).

thumb-logoPlex has become a major part of our media set up.  It’s a program that will push content to Roku from your NAS (and various other places, but I’m mostly concerned with getting my media from my NAS to my television, and that happens via Plex and Roku).  Plex has a subscription based online experience with various channels and content, but the actual channel/app for your Roku is offered for a one time purchase of only $5, and it is WELL worth it (you can try it first for 30 days free).  You also need to have a server running the Plex Media Server (I installed a free Plex Media server module on my Thecus NAS so all the media is streamed using the Plex Server from the NAS –but you could just as easily stream content from a PC).

imagesPlex is able to convert media on the fly, so anything you throw at it is converted to h.264 and fed to your Roku over wifi.  I was allowing Plex to convert VOB’s from my ripped DVD collection (all ripped from DVD’s I own, for those keeping tabs), but I have recently begun converting a lot of my movies and ALL of the TV shows on the server to h264 using HandBrake and/or MakeMKV.  Plex does an “ok” job of converting on the fly, but if the files already exist as h264, you get a MUCH MORE streamlined media streaming experience (read: no delays or hiccups when watching).  The h264 files at the same native resolution also take up a LOT less space than VOB files (which are MPEG-2).

I am still using the HTPC (an actual computer), but funny enough, we use it mostly just to watch Hulu (you can’t get Hulu on your Roku unless you pay for HuluPlus, and I’m not interested in paying $10/month for a service that DOESN’T eliminate the commercials (what the hell?!)).  Also, from what I understand reading other people’s complaints about HuluPlus, it doesn’t even offer all of the content on Hulu free (again, what the hell?!).

I am close to finalizing our over-the-air recording set up (broadcast TV recorder) that will allow me to stop using Hulu altogether.  We pretty much only use Hulu to catch up on Network TV that we’ve missed throughout the week, so once I am recording all those shows with a PC/TV tuner and the broadcast signal from the aerial antenna, we’ll be able to stream the recorded programs from the NAS via Plex/Roku and will no longer need Hulu –or an internet connection, for that matter.

We’re actually already set up to record broadcast TV (just Windows Media Center on the bedroom HTPC), but it’s a part of an HTPC that has to be physically hooked up to the TV, and I’m working on getting it moved elsewhere, and then automating the record/convert-to-h264 for Roku streaming process and we won’t need an attached HTPC cluttering up the bedroom or making noise where we’re trying to watch/sleep.

Recorded TV: you can set up XBMC (free media software) with a third-party recorder like NextPVR to record TV from signal using a tuner card in your PC, but I prefer to just use Windows Media Center, since it comes with Windows and doesn’t require any additional work (Windows 7/8 come with television recording ready to go –you just have to buy a TV Tuner Card).  There are also other software programs you can use to record live television with a PC Television Tuner Card (often they come free with the TV Tuner Card).

If you’d rather go the XBMC route, here’s a post on Lifehacker showing how to set up the software (again, it’s a bit more complex than just using WMC).

The only problem I have with WMC (Windows Media Center) is that it records to a proprietary format (.wtv) that’s really just a container file for video encoded using the MPEG-2 and MPEG-4 standard and audio using MPEG-1 Layer II or Dolby Digital AC-3.  Some people have had trouble converting the .wtv format to h264 with Handbrake, but to date (knock on wood) I haven’t had any issues; it’s been working great for me.  I just use Handbrake to convert the files recorded by WMC directly to h264 for streaming.  If it doesn’t work for you, you can try right-clicking the WMC file (the .wtv file) and converting it to the older Windows Media Player format (.DVR-MS), then converting that file to h264 with MakeMKV and/or Handbrake.

So outside of the stuff we stream from the NAS (ripped movies and television shows from recorded over-the-air and ripped DVD’s), we use Roku to stream from Amazon Prime, HBO, and some PBS (and will likely start streaming Netflix again in the near future).  I’ve tried using Roku channels like the History Channel, but the content is limited to a couple of episodes of each show so once you’ve watched the channel, it’s basically “used up” until they refresh the content in a week or a month).

A lot of the “cable channels” on Roku are set up this way.  You can watch one or two episodes of each show, but that’s it.  Some of the channels will allow you to subscribe to see all their content, but I’m not willing to pay $30 to watch a season of a single channel when sources like Amazon Prime have tons of content (thousands of shows and movies) for one, much lower, subscription price.

So, to recap, I rip DVD’s to h264 and put them on a NAS (network attached storage, 11TB of media that is always on and available).  I also record Network TV from an old fashioned television antenna that receives almost 30 broadcast channels (in HD resolution) over the air.  The ripped DVD’s and recorded television are converted to h264 (.mp4 or .m4v) for streaming from the NAS via Plex on the Roku hooked up to each television.

We also watch movies and television from Amazon Prime (paid subscription), HBO  (Comcast has added streaming HBO to a couple of their ISP packages, including Internet Plus and Blast Plus, see image below), and soon Netflix again (we dropped it for a while, but are going to sign up again).

ComcastFreeHBO

FreeHBOComcastInternet 
(here’s a full screen shot with address bar to “prove” the free HBO with internet is coming directly from Comcast)

We have almost cut out the HTPC (the home theater computer), and the only thing that might be missed will be direct access to the internet (but almost all content accessed directly from the internet can be found through other plug-ins/apps/channels/routes).

We are doing quite well without paying for cable.  I think some people would miss the “ease” of channel surfing, but I actually like the control of a more specific and intentional media watching experience.

There are also TONS of options for streaming to your tv from your phone or tablet (things like Twonky, Roku Screen Mirroring, various content provider apps, etc.) as well as Boxee, Apple TV, Xbox, Chrome Cast, Amazon Media Fire, etc., but for us, an antenna with a PC tuner card, NAS, Plex, and Roku are what we find serve us best (and for so much less cash than a cable subscription!).

Saturday, November 1, 2014

John Alcott on Filming Barry Lyndon (from American Cinematographer)

I have copied this article in it’s entirety from http://www.visual-memory.co.uk/sk/2001a/bl/page1.htm for fear that that site/link might disappear at some point and this review might no longer be available on the web (as that was the only location of this article I could find on the internet).  If I need to remove this article because of copyright infringement, please let me know, as my intention is only to offer the article as an educational tool for filmmakers.

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[Credit/Thanks from the Visual Memory website] With thanks to Mark for making this available.

From: American Cinematographer
Title: Photographing Stanley Kubrick's Barry Lyndon - JOHN ALCOTT

Among all the film-makers of the world, there is no one quite like Stanley Kubrick.

To be more accurate, there is no one even remotely like him.

An early dropout from formal education, largely self-taught, but possessed of a razor-sharp intelligence and a voracious curiosity, he has, since the late 1950s steadily risen toward the very pinnacle among the rarefied ranks of world-famed film producer-directors.

Behind him there are ten feature motion pictures, each one totally different from the others in both content and style. He has never twice made the same type of film.

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Director of Photography John Alcott BSC, and Director Stanley Kubrick scouting locations in Ireland for the Warner Bros. presentation of "BARRY LYNDON". The result of their combined expertise is a wonderfully muted, pictorial tour de force. The entire three-hour-plus picture was shot in actual locations - exterior and interior - with not a single studio set used.

What sort of man stands behind this astounding body of work? Nobody seems to know - for he is such an intensely private person, living and working, since 1961, encapsulated with his family in a manor house outside of London, that he has become - reluctantly, one suspects - a kind of legend, a disembodied enigma, making public his persona solely in terms of what he puts up there on the screen.

He cares nothing for personal publicity and is all but inaccessible to journalists - which is understandable, considering how many so-called "journalists" hanging onto the fringes of the film world are such unprincipled swine.

Yet, to those few whom he respects and trusts, he comes across as completely free of pretensions, totally honest and forthright.

When, in 1968, after "2001: A SPACE ODYSSEY' had burst like a rocket across the screens of the world, Editor Herb Lightman personally asked Kubrick to share the "secrets" of the film's stunning technical expertise with American Cinematographer readers, he graciously and generously did so, explaining each unique and dazzling effect in the most precise detail, holding back nothing (see American Cinematographer, June 1968).

To say that Kubrick is "dedicated" is to sell him short, considering that in Hollywood a dedicated producer is all too often one who foregoes his weekly poker game in order to count the preview cards of his latest movie.

The term "complete commitment" comes closer to describing Kubrick's symbiotic relationship with film - but "total immersion" is even more apt. Taking as long as four years to make a single film ("2001", for example), he eats, sleeps and breathes the project, once into it. An almost fanatical perfectionist, he drives his co-workers seemingly beyond the limits of their endurance toward heights of achievement they never imagined, let alone hoped to attain.

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(Left) John Alcott says that Kubrick "gave him his break" on "2001: A Space Odyssey", by asking him to "carry on" as Cinematographer when Director of Photography Geoffrey Unsworth had to leave the production after the first six months in order to fulfill another commitment. The two men also worked on Kubrick's "A Clockwork Orange". (Right) The Director checks out a composition through viewfinder of Arriflex 35BL camera, which was used to film the entire production.

Stanley Kubrick does not simply create films - he creates entire worlds on film. In "DOCTOR STRANGELOVE" he creates a world at once hysterically funny and nightmarish, a quite plausible preview of the beginning of the end of life on this planet. In "2001" he creates a world of the not-so-distant future - cold and computerized, with robot-like astronauts reaching almost mindlessly out toward the cosmic unknown. In "A CLOCKWORK ORANGE" he creates a 1984-ish world of senseless violence that is only a silly millimeter away from the chronic craziness and terrorism that prevail globally at this very moment.

And now comes "BARRY LYNDON".

In this latest epic effort, currently caressing selected screens, he translates into cinematic terms the first novel of William Makepeace Thackeray to create a pastel, pictorial 18th-century world of lush country estates, doll-like women and dueling men.

The film's central character is a slightly thick, hungrily ambitious young Irishman who longs to pull himself up by his low-born bootstraps into the airy-fairy world of the nobility - and almost succeeds in doing it.

The lavishly mounted production, released by Warner Bros., runs 3 hours and 4 minutes, and cost $11 million - every dollar of which is visible on the screen.

In its bare bones the rise-and-fall saga of an 18th-century Sammy Glick, "BARRY LYNDON" is also practically a documentary of how people lived in the Ireland and England of that period - their manners and morals, their values and amours, their personal duels and large-scale battles.

It is a film on a grand scale which abounds in meticulous technical craftsmanship and-even more important - the tender loving care of Stanley Kubrick and his loyal co-craftsmen.

In his cover story for the December 15, 1975 issue of Time magazine, noted film critic-historian Richard Schickel wrote: "In it, he [Kubrick] demonstrates the qualities that eluded Thackeray: singularity of vision, mature mastery of his medium, near-reckless courage in asserting through his work a claim not just to the distinction critics have already granted him but to greatness that time alone can - and probably will - confirm."

Underlying this statement is the realization that Kubrick has taken a basically talky novel and magically transformed it into an intensely visual film.

Schickel went on to write: "The structure of the work is truly novel. In addition, Kubrick has assembled perhaps the most ravishing sets of images ever printed on a single strip of celluloid. These virtues are related: the structure would not work without Kubrick's sustaining mastery of the camera, lighting and composition; the images would not be so powerful if the director had not devised a narrative structure spacious enough for them to pile up with overwhelming impressiveness."

The operative phrase out of that assertion is: "the most ravishing set of images ever printed on a single strip of celluloid." - which is quite possibly true, because "BARRY LYNDON" is a delicious feast for the eye. Each composition is like a painting by one of the Old Masters, and they link one onto the other like the tiles of a wondrous mosaic.

Pictorially, the elegant result emerges from a close collaboration between Kubrick (no mean photographer himself) and Director of Photography John Alcott, BSC.

Aside from the sheer beauty of the images, the problems of getting some of them onto the screen were considerable and unique. In the following interview, conducted by the American Cinematographer Editor, John Alcott discusses those problems, as well as the techniques utilized to make "BARRY LYNDON" the pictorially beautiful film that it is:

Kubrick
Having started his career as a LOOK photographer at the age of 17, Stanley Kubrick is a supremely knowledgeable film technician, as well as talented screenwriter and inspired director. He has innovated the use of many advanced techniques - such as front projection in "2001", and is constantly on the lookout for the most progressive methods and equipment to enable the film artist to realize his cinematic visions more effectively. He exercises full creative control over his productions, including the extremely rare "final cut".

QUESTION: You've worked with Stanley Kubrick on three pictures: "2001: A SPACE ODYSSEY", "A CLOCKWORK ORANGE" and now "BARRY LYNDON". Can you tell me a bit about that working relationship?

ALCOTT: We have a very close working relationship, which began on "2001". I had been assisting Geoffrey Unsworth on that picture and then, when Geoff had to leave after the first six months. I was asked to carry on - so it was Stanley Kubrick who gave me my break. Our working relationship is close because we think exactly alike photographically. We really do see eye-to-eye photographically.

QUESTION: What about the preplanning phase of "BARRY LYNDON"?

ALCOTT: There was a great deal of testing of possible photographic approaches and effects - the candlelight thing, for example. Actually, we had talked about shooting solely by candlelight as far back as "2001", when Stanley was planning to film "NAPOLEON" but the requisite fast lenses were not available at the time. In preparation for "BARRY LYNDON" we studied the lighting effects achieved in the paintings of the Dutch masters, but they seemed a bit flat - so we decided to light more from the side.

QUESTION: You photographed both "A CLOCKWORK ORANGE" and "BARRY LYNDON" for Stanley Kubrick and, obviously the photographic styles of these two pictures were quite different from each other Comparing the two, purely as a point of interest, how would you describe those stylistic differences?

ALCOTT: Well, "A CLOCKWORK ORANGE" employed a darker, more obviously dramatic type of photography. It was a modern story taking place in an advanced period of the 1980's - although the period was never actually pinpointed in the picture. That period called for a really cold, stark style of photography; whereas, "BARRY LYNDON" is more pictorial, with a softer, more subtle rendition of light and shadow overall than "A CLOCKWORK ORANGE". As I saw it, the story of "BARRY LYNDON" took place during a romantic type of period - although it didn't necessarily have to be a romantic film. I say "a romantic period" because of the quality of the clothes, the dressing of the sets, and the architecture of that period. These all had a kind of soft feeling. I think you probably could have lighted "BARRY LYNDON" in the same way as "A CLOCKWORK ORANGE", but it just wouldn't have looked right. It wouldn't have had that soft feeling.

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QUESTION: How did you translate "that soft feeling" into cinematic terms, and what technical means did you use to achieve it?

ALCOTT: In most instances we were trying to create the feeling of natural light within the houses, mostly stately homes, that we used as shooting locations. That was virtually their only source of light during the period of the film, and those houses still exist, with their paintings and tapestries hanging. I would tend to re-create that type of light, all natural light actually coming through the windows. I've always been a natural light source type of cameraman - if one can put it that way. I think it's exciting, actually, to see what illumination is provided by daylight and then try to create the effect. Sometimes it's impossible when the light outside falls below a certain level. We shot some of those sequences in the wintertime, when there was natural light from perhaps 9 o'clock in the morning until 3 o'clock in the afternoon. The requirement was to bring the light up to a level so that we could shoot from 8 o'clock in the morning until something like 7 o'clock in the evening - while maintaining the consistent effect. At the same time, we tried to duplicate thc situations established by research and reference to the drawings and paintings of that day - how rooms were illuminated, and so on. The actual compositions of our setups were very authentic to the drawings of the period.

QUESTION: In other words, then, you would take your cue from the way the natural light actually fell and then you would build that up or simulate it with your lighting units in an attempt to get the same effect, but at an exposurable level?

ALCOTT: Yes. In some instances, what we created looked much better than the real thing. For example, there's a sequence that takes place in Barry's dining room, when his little boy asks if his father has bought him a horse. That particular room had five windows, with a very large window in the center that was much greater in height than the others. I found that it suited the sequence better to have the light coming from one source only, rather than from all around. So we controlled the light in such a way that it fell upon the center of the table at which they were having their meal, with the rest of the room falling off into nice subdued, subtle color.

QUESTION: In creating that particular effect, did you use any of the light actually coming through the windows?

ALCOTT: No, it was simulated by means of Mini-Brutes. I used Mini-Brutes all the time, with tracing paper on the windows - plastic material, actually. I find it to be a little bit better than the tracing paper.

QUESTION: Was most of the picture shot in actual locations, or did you have to build some sets?

ALCOTT: Oh, no - every shot is an actual location. We didn't build any sets whatsoever. All of the rooms exist inside actual houses in Ireland and the southwest of England.

QUESTION: What about the physical problems of shooting inside those actual stately homes?

ALCOTT: Well, we did have problems, although they didn't affect me too much. For instance, many of those stately homes are open to the public. We couldn't restrict the public from going through - so we had to cater to them. We would use certain rooms with visitors virtually walking past in the corridor. They would simply close off that one room and have the public bypass it. However, at times our shooting schedule would be limited to the point where we had to work when they weren't touring. They would go around in groups and we would virtually shoot when they were changing over from one group to another. In many of the locations, though, we had complete freedom of the house. We didn't really have too many problems, except for having to build very large rostrums for the lighting in certain rooms. I also had rostrums built around the exterior windows. They could be wheeled out of the way for reverse angles when we were shooting towards the windows and wanted to show the view outside, as well. Such was the case in the sequence that takes place in Countess Lyndon's bedroom.

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QUESTION: Did you have to gel the windows, or were you using a daylight balance?

ALCOTT: In the actual interiors, most of the time, we did gel the windows, although there were a very few instances when we didn't do it. We had neutral density filters made, as well - ND3, ND6 and ND9 - so that we had a complete range to accommodate whatever light situation prevailed outside the windows. Also, on all the exterior shooting, I never used an 85 filter.

QUESTION: What was your reason for not using the 85?

ALCOTT: One reason was to get an overall consistent balance throughout the entire picture. In that sense, I tend to use it as I use forced development - that is, in every scene (including those that don't actually need it), in order to maintain a consistency of visual character throughout. The second reason was simply that the exterior light was sometimes so low that I needed the extra two-thirds of a stop. Although we mostly used the zoom lens outdoors, there were many instances in which we ended up shooting wide open with the Canon T/1.2 lens.

QUESTION: In other words, the light was sometimes so dull, so overcast that you had to open up that lens all the way. Is that right?

ALCOTT: Oh, yes - all the way. That was especially true in the holdup ambush sequence. We started off with a good day and there was plenty of light in the beginning, but the last part of that sequence was shot with the T/1.2 lens wide open. In order to match the brilliance of the normal daylight one had to be very fully exposed. I needed that fast lens.

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QUESTION: Can you tell me to what extent you used diffusion in shooting "BARRY LYNDON"?

ALCOTT: When I went around looking at locations with Stanley we discussed diffusion among other things. The period of the story seemed to call for diffusion, but on the other hand, an awful lot of diffusion was being used in cinematography at the time. So we tended not to diffuse. We didn't use gauzes, for example. Instead I used a No.3 Low Contrast filter all the way through - except for the wedding sequence, where I wanted to control the highlights on the faces a bit more. In that case, the No.3 Low Contrast filter was combined with a brown net, which gave it a slightly different quality. We opted for the Low Contrast filter, rather than actual diffusion because the clarity and definition in Ireland creates a shooting situation that is very like a photographer's paradise. The air is so refined, I think, because Ireland is in the Gulf Stream. The atmosphere is actually perfect and we thought it would be a pity to destroy that with diffusion, especially for the landscape photography.

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QUESTION: That's rather refreshing. There seems to be a tendency these days, despite the nice sharp lenses that are available, to just fuzz everything out as a matter of course.

ALCOTT: Yes, it's done a lot. I've even done it myself in shooting commercials. We did discuss the possibility for "BARRY LYNDON", but then we thought: "Well, it's been done before so many times; let's try for something different. Let's go into low contrast." We tested many filters and of all those we tested the Tiffen Low Contrast filters came out the best quality-wise. With the Tiffen filters we didn't lose any quality whatsoever, even when shooting wide open, in fact. They were the best.

QUESTION: Did you use any of the 5247 color negative, or was it all 5254?

ALCOTT: We used the 5254, because the 5247 wasn't available even at the time when we finished shooting. It came out something like two months after we had finished the main shooting of the film. Now I find that, because of the fineness of the grain with the 5247, I would have had to use a No.5 Tiffen Low Contrast filter in order to get the same effect I got using the No.3 with the old stock.

QUESTION: Do you find, as many other cinematographers have found, that the 5247 negative has an inherently higher contrast than the 5254?

ALCOTT: Well, they say it's higher contrast, but I really think it's not so much the contrast as the fact that the grain is so much finer. If the grain is finer, this will increase the apparent contrast. In other words, you've got to dress and color your sets to accommodate the film stock. Even the tiniest ornaments which are red will kick out on the new stock, whereas on the old stock they wouldn't. This is because of the finer grain. It's the color, in fact, which is building up the contrast. However, I can't understand why anybody wouldn't go for the finer grain, because that's what it's all about. The thing is to try to make it work by knocking down the contrast in some other way. We must either modify the lighting or design the set in a way to tone it down. For instance, in some of the interiors used for shooting "BARRY LYNDON" there were lots of white areas - fireplaces and such. If you put a light through a window these would stick out like a sore thumb, as they say. So, most of the time, I covered them with a black net - the white marble of the fireplaces, the very large white three-foot-wide panels on the walls, and the door frames that were white. I covered them with a black net having about a half-inch mesh. You could never see it photographically, unless you were really close to it - but in the long shots it wasn't visible at all. It did wonders in toning down the white. I also used graduated neutral density filters on certain light parts of the set when the illumination was coming from a natural light source and there was no way to gobo it off. For example, if the light source were coming from the left and hitting something that it was not possible to put a net over, I would put a neutral density filter on the right side - an ND3 or ND6, depending upon the brightness.

QUESTION: You would actually use graduated neutral density filters for shooting interiors? That's not done very often, is it?

ALCOTT: I don't think so - no. I know that when I use them now in different types of work that I do, some of the people on the set wonder what I'm up to, using graduated filters for interiors. But they work very well indeed. In fact, we had a matte box made to accept the three filters on the Arriflex 35BL. Incidentally, we used the Arriflex 35BL all the way through the picture.

QUESTION:Can you give me some of your impressions of that camera?

ALCOTT: I think it's a fantastic camera. To me, it's a cameraman's camera - mainly because the optical system is so good. Some optical systems give you a much more exaggerated tunneling effect than others, and I even came across someone the other day who prefers that long tunneling effect because it makes him feel like he's in a cinema. Personally, I prefer it when my eye is filled with the actual picture image. You find that this only really occurs with the Arriflex 35BL. Another feature I like about the camera is that you've got the aperture control literally at your fingertips. It's got a much larger scale and, therefore, a finer adjustment than most cameras. This feature is especially important when you're working with Stanley Kubrick, because he likes to continue shooting whether the sun is going in or out. In "BARRY LYNDON", during the sequence when Barry is buying the horse for his young son, the sun was going in and out all through the sequence. You've got to cater to this. That old bit that says you cut because the sun's gone in doesn't go anymore.

QUESTION: Instead, you try to ride it out by varying the aperture opening during the shooting of the scene?

ALCOTT: Yes, that's why the Arriflex 35BL offers such an advantage. It's got a finer aperture adjustment - more so than most other cameras - which allows you to cater to light variations while you're actually shooting. On most lenses there's not a great distance between one aperture stop and the next. There isn't actually on the Arriflex 35BL lenses either, but it's the gearing mechanism on the outside that offers the larger scale and, therefore, the possibility of more precise adjustment. It's like converting a 1/4-inch move into a 1-inch move.

QUESTION: What about the use of the zoom lens in this film?

ALCOTT: Oh, yes - we used it a great deal. The Angenieux 10-to-1 zoom was used on the Arriflex 35BL, in conjunction with Ed DiGiulio's Cinema Products "Joy Stick" zoom control, which is an excellent one. It starts and stops without a sudden jar, which is very important, and you can manipulate it so slowly that it almost feels like nothing is happening. This is very difficult to do with some of the motorized zoom controls. I find that this one really works.

QUESTION: What types of lighting equipment did you use?

ALCOTT: We used Mini-Brutes and we used a lot of Lowel-Lights - all the time. I used the Lowel-Lights in umbrellas for overall fill. I always use the umbrellas - ever since "A CLOCKWORK ORANGE". I find that the Lowel-Light has a far greater range of illumination from flood to spot than any other light I know of. In fact, it's the only light of its type that gives you a fantastic spot, if you need it, and an absolute overall flood. Also, when you put a flag in front of most quartz lights you get a double shadow - but not with the Lowel-Lights. But then, of course, they were designed by a cameraman.

 11

QUESTION: What about the use of the moving camera in "BARRY LYNDON"?

ALCOTT: We used it in certain sequences, but not too many. We had one very long tracking shot in the battle sequence, with the cameras on an 800-foot track. There were three cameras on the track, moving with the troops. We used an Elemack dolly, with bogie wheels, on ordinary metal platforms, and a five-foot and sometimes six-foot wheel span, because we found that this worked quite well in trying to get rid of the vibrations when working on the end of the zoom. It seemed to take the vibration out better than going directly onto the Elemack.

QUESTION: Do I understand that you were racked out to the end of the zoom on that tracking shot?

ALCOTT: Yes, virtually all closeups made from the track during that battle sequence were on the 250mm end of the zoom.

QUESTION: That really is living dangerously.

ALCOTT: I made a test beforehand with the camera traveling on an ordinary track and one with this base, and the difference was quite amazing. That's what got us round to building these platforms and using the Elemack with the bogie wheels on the four corners. They are really quite handy for doing all kinds of shots.

QUESTION: What would you say was your most difficult sequence to shoot in this film?

ALCOTT: I think the most difficult bit was the scene in the club when Barry comes over to confront the nobleman sitting at the other table, is given the cold shoulder and then goes back to his own table. That involved a 180-degree pan and what made it difficult was the fluctuations in the weather outside. There were many windows and I had lights hidden behind the brickwork and beaming through the windows. The outside light was going up and down so much that we had to keep changing things to make sure the windows wouldn't blow out excessively. This was most difficult to do, because any time I changed the gels on the windows, I also had to change the lights outside in order to avoid getting too much light inside and not enough outside. I would say that was the most difficult shot in the whole picture, in terms of lighting. What complicated it further was the fact that this was one of those stately houses that had the public coming through and visiting at the same time we were shooting.

QUESTION: Did you use much colored light during the filming?

ALCOTT: Yes, many times. An example that comes to mind is the scene in Barry's room after he has had his leg amputated. I used a light coming through the window with an extra 1/2 sepia over it in order to give a warm effect to the backlight and sidelight. In other words, a 50% overcorrection. A similar effect was used on Barry in the sequence when his boy is dying. In some instances I let the natural blue daylight come through in the background without correcting it. The result looked pleasing and it created a more "daylight" sort of effect.

QUESTION: I can't recall any night-for-night shots in the picture. Were there any, perhaps, that didn't appear in the final cut?

ALCOTT: There weren't really any night shots. There's that one twilight scene of Barry by the fire meditating after he's joined up, but that was shot at the "magic hour" and wasn't a true night shot.

QUESTION: Now we come to the scenes which have caused more comment than anything else in this overall beautiful film - namely the candlelight scenes. Can you tell me about these and how they were executed?

ALCOTT: The objective was to shoot these scenes exclusively by candlelight - that is, without a boost from any artificial light whatsoever. As I mentioned earlier, Stanley Kubrick and I had been discussing this possibility for years, but had not been able to find sufficiently fast lenses to do it. Stanley finally discovered three 50mm f/0.7 Zeiss still-camera lenses which were left over from a batch made for use by NASA in their Apollo moon-landing program. We had a non-reflexed Mitchell BNC which was sent over to Ed DiGiulio to be reconstructed to accept this ultra-fast lens. He had to mill out the existing lens mounts, because the rear element of this f/0.7 lens was virtually something like 4mm from the film plane. It took quite a while, and when we got the camera back we made quite extensive tests on it. This Zeiss lens was like no other lens in a way, because when you look through any normal type of lens, like the Panavision T/1.1 or the Angenieux f/0.95, you are looking through the optical system and by just altering the focus you can tell whether it's in or out of focus. But when you looked through this lens it appeared to have a fantastic range of focus, quite unbelievable. However, when you did a photographic test you discovered that it had no depth of field at all - which one expected anyway. So we literally had to scale this lens by doing hand tests from about 200 feet down to about 4 feet, marking every distance that would lead up to the 10-foot range. We had to literally get it down to inches on the actual scaling.

QUESTION: You say that the focal length was 50mm?

ALCOTT: It was 50mm, but then we acquired a projection lens of the reduction type, which Ed DiGiulio fitted over another 50mm lens to give us a 36.5mm lens for wider-angle coverage. The original 50mm lens was used for virtually all the medium shots and close shots.

QUESTION: And those scenes were illuminated entirely by candlelight?

ALCOTT: Entirely by the candles. In the sequence where Lord Ludd and Barry are in the gaming room and he loses a large amount of money, the set was lit entirely by the candles, but I had metal reflectors made to mount above the two chandeliers, the main purpose being to keep the heat of the candles from damaging the ceiling. However, it also acted as a light reflector to provide an overall illumination of toplight.

QUESTION: How many foot-candles (no pun intended) would you say you were using in that case?

ALCOTT: Roughly, three foot-candles was the key. We were forcing the whole picture one stop in development. Incidentally, I found a great advantage in using the Gossen Panalux electronic meter for these sequences, because it goes down to half foot-candle measurements. It's a very good meter for those extreme low-light situations. We were using 70-candle chandeliers, and most of the time I could also use either five-candle or three-candle table candelabra, as well. We actually went for a burnt-out effect, a very high key on the faces themselves.

QUESTION: What were some of the other problems attendant to using this ultra-fast lens to shoot entirely by candlelight?

ALCOTT: There was, first of all, the problem of finding a side viewfinder that would transmit enough light to show us where we were framed. The conventional viewfinder would not do at all, because it involves prisms which cause such a high degree of light loss that very little image is visible at such low light levels. Instead, we had to adapt to the BNC a viewfinder from one of the old Technicolor three-strip cameras. It works on a principle of mirrors and simply reflects what it "sees", resulting in a much brighter image. There is very little parallax with that viewfinder, since it mounts so close to the lens.

QUESTION: What about the depth of field problem?

ALCOTT: As I suggested before, that was indeed a problem. The point of focus was so critical and there was hardly any depth of field with that f/0.7 lens. My focus operator, Doug Milsome, used a closed-circuit video camera as the only way to keep track of the distances with any degree of accuracy. The video camera was placed at a 90-degree angle to the film camera position and was monitored by means of a TV screen mounted above the camera lens scale. A grid was placed over the TV screen and by taping the various artists' positions, the distances could be transferred to the TV grid to allow the artists a certain flexibility of movement, while keeping them in focus.

It was a very tricky operation, but according to all reports, it worked out quite satisfactorily.

Blogger (Blogspot) Posts Mysteriously Converted to Drafts (and no longer live)

Recently nearly 100 of my posts stopped appearing on this blog.  When I accessed the dashboard directly (on blogger.com), all these posts (some with more than 15,000 views) had been converted to “drafts,” and thus no longer appeared live on the blog.

What the hell?!

Putting them back up was a simple matter of ticking the box next to them in the “Posts” view and then clicking “publish,” but how long have they NOT been accessible via the web?!

Super lame.

The only thing I can think of is that I updated Windows Live Writer (the program I use to actually compose blog posts, since the Blogger compose window is so abysmal), so perhaps that had something to do with it?!

Whether is was Microsoft’s fault or Google’s, it still sucks, so I’m posting this in case it happens to anyone else.

Now That’s a Vintage Lens

25-250mm T3.9 Angenieux Zoom LensThe first vintage lens I loved was an Angienux 25-200 T3.9 that one of the co-producers on our first feature owned.  We used it to shoot the end credits with a “vintage Italian cinema feel,” (live, quick, super-zooms, lens flair, etc.).  This is actually the same lens that Kubrick used quite a bit on Barry Lyndon.

Incidentally, here’s an article from American Cinematographer where John Alcott (Barry Lyndon cinematographer) discusses the Angienux). [I’ve actually copied the article in its entirety to this blog, for fear the valuable information might disappear at some point, since that link is the only source I could find for this article.]

I thought that Angienux was pretty old tech to be using for 4K digital footage.

However, Vimeo user Ignacio Sanchez found this 1919 Toledo lens at a flea market in Madrid and adapted it for his 5DmkII and 550D running Magic Lantern.  Now THAT is old tech… and it looks awesome.  Perhaps a little “soft” (HA! –what an understatement), but gorgeous nonetheless.

110 years old lens in 5DmkII - Tessar 1º design. UPDATE: from 1919 from Ignacio Sanchez on Vimeo.

TOLEDO lens TEST#1 from Ignacio Sanchez on Vimeo.

Thursday, October 30, 2014

Google Drive is Preventing My PC from Shutting Down

…and Google doesn’t seem to care!  There are posts from years ago on the Google forums, and responses from Google admin saying “we’re looking into this,” but the problem still exists (in Win 7 and Win 8).

2epjbxz
(screenshot from BleepingComputer.com – click for link to thread)

I have tried uninstalling/reinstalling Google Drive, but to no avail.  And it’s a serious pain in the butt, because every time you do this, in order to associate a folder with Google Drive, the drive has to be empty (you can’t associate a folder with any contents).  So once you’ve reinstalled Google Drive, you have to create a new folder, associate it with Google Drive, dump all the contents of your old Google Drive into the new folder, rename the folder, and then wait for Google Drive to figure out what the hell just happened (update sync database).

In a thread discussing problems with Piriform’s CCLeaner and Google Drive, I found this information:

When the Google Drive application is running, it creates a directory under C:\Users\Chukhung\AppData\Local\Temp with a name like "_MEI54082" (the last five digits of the directory name change every time the Google Drive application is started). Within this directory are a large number of subdirectories, DLLs, and what appear to be Python files. This directory disappears when the Google Drive application is shut down manually.  [. . .] I'm guessing that Google Drive gets seriously confused when CCleaner partially deletes the contents of this directory.

This seems like a pretty decent guess as to why this is happening, but I’m not sure what to do about it (other than to always manually shut down Google Drive before shutting down the computer, which isn’t exactly an ideal solution).

I will update this post if I find a solution, but in the meantime, feel free to post your thoughts/solutions in the comments!

Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Scanning Multiple Photos at Once

Anyone born before 1984 has albums (or stacks) of printed photos.  Consumers didn’t start using digital cameras until the mid-nineties or so.  Therefore, anyone born before 1984 has probably wanted to scan in a ton of photos at one time or another.

The problem is, there are NO good options (time efficient, decent-quality, and inexpensive).

You can use a scanning service, but sending my precious photos out to some anonymous nit-wit in a lab somewhere is NOT a gamble I am willing to take (also, have you seen Red Dragon?! –I don’t want that guy handling my photos).  Not to mention, there is the intermediary of the carrier (USPS, FedEx, UPS, etc.) on BOTH sides of the operation, and in my experience, those guys lose things WAY too often to trust them with my treasured memories.

I am ASTOUNDED that there is not a HUGE market for a consumer device that would allow you to simply place a stack of photos in a hopper and have a scanner process images automatically.  Surely there are THOUSANDS of people who would pay a couple hundred dollars for this device.  And considering what scanners cost (they basically come FREE with your printer these days), I can’t imagine that there wouldn’t be a HUGE profit on this $200 item.

I also can’t believe there doesn’t seem to be a single review or blog post online discussing the possibilities of using a multi-sheet document scanner for scanning multiple photos in a single session.  There are TONS of people wanting to do this (scan multiple photos at once), but nobody writing about the possibility of using the available tools.

So here’s my contribution to the throngs of people yearning for a way to scan their thousands and thousands of photos into their computers.

The ideal solution is obviously a scanner with autofeed that can process a stack of photos in batches.  Anything I’ve found in the past decade that is of any quality whatsoever (mostly Nikon and Kodak products) is in the over-$2,000 range.  There have been cheaper “family photo” scanners that can do a small stack, but they are generally extremely limited and tend to have horrible scan settings (like 300/600dpi max and only one option to save to JPEG).  Not only that, but they seem to have gone the way of the Dodo; I can’t find a single one online at the moment.

The closest thing available are document scanners like the NeatDesk ($340 and a pretty low rating on Amazon) and Fujitu’s ScanSnap ($447 and a four and a half star rating from more than 1,300 reviewers), but they are specifically catered to documents, and thus scan at only 300-600dpi maximum resolution and only save to JPEG or PDF (and at the $300-$400 price point, I can’t imagine why in the world you would buy either of these things instead of a $99 all-in-one that also prints photographs).

For a while Epson had the Epson B11B172171 Perfection 2480 limited edition for around $500 (or you could purchase the B12B813372 for around $160 which was just the photo feeder lid that you could attach to either the Epson 2480 or 2580 flatbed scanner), but all of these have been discontinued and I could only find a few in weird places around the web (places I wouldn’t necessarily trust to buy from).  Actually, there are two used ones on Amazon, but they are  $475 and  $639 –USED!).  The B11B172171 was a flat bed scanner, but it had a 4x6 photo feeder in the lid, and could scan a stack of 25 photos at 48bit, 2400dpi resolution.  I am very curious as to why it was discontinued.  I’m not sure I would have gone for it, since the max photo size it could scan from the feeder was only 4x6, but I guess that’s better than the nothing that is available now.

[UPDATE]: I have found the B12B813372 in a couple of places for around $140, and it will work the Epson Perfection 3590 Photos Scanner (as well as 2480, 2580, and 3490) which you can still find in some random places on close-out (or perhaps even used).  The only downside is being limited to a max photo size of 4x6.

HP offered the 5500C ($300) for a while, which was very similar to the Epson (25 photo stack feeder), but evidently it jammed all the time, as all the reviews I’ve read for it are awful.

So today I did a bunch of research on “what’s out there” in the under $200 range for devices that offer a multi-sheet document feed for the on board scanner.  Full disclosure, for my photo printing needs, I switched from Epson (a prosumer grade, large format printer) to Canon nearly a decade ago, and I’ve been very happy with that decision (so I guess I may be a little partial to Canon).

The brands that I came across in my research were the ones you would expect to find: Canon, Epson, HP, and Brother.  After a couple of hours of online research, I decided to go with the Canon MX922 even though it only has a Contact Image Sensor (CIS) and a resolution of 2400x4800 for the flatbed (compared to a Charged-Coupled Device (CCD) sensor with a resolution of 4800x9600 in my older Canon MP990).  The specs for the Auto Document Feeder shows only a resolution of 600dpi x 600dpi, though looking at the way the ADF functions, I’m not sure why the ADF and Flatbed have different scanning resolutions; they seem like they utilize the same sensor.  From the specs, I’m also not exactly sure what 48-bit internal/24-bit external means (why would internal/external be different?), but that’s the same spec as my MP990.

Most importantly, the MX922 has a 35 sheet capacity auto-doc feeder for the scanner.

The price at Staples is currently the same as Amazon ($99) even though that’s the “regular” price on Amazon and a “special mark down” at Staples (where I guess it’s usually $199 –I’m kind of assuming it’s being discontinued?).  So I went to Staples, picked one up, drove it home and plugged it in (total time from leaving my house to printing the first test sheet was about 23 minutes).

Unfortunately, the Canon software does not allow using any of the scanner’s “photo” settings if you have selected “ADF” (auto document feeder) for the source.  This is INCREDIBLY annoying!  Also, the ADF only allows for a limited number of document sizes: Letter, Legal, A4, A5, B4, B5.  This means I had to set the feed guides at their smallest setting and then find something to set between the feed guide and the edge of my stack of photos to accommodate the 4x6 size.

As you can see from the scans below, the photo almost always rotated a bit, but I think with some creative engineering I can remedy this situation without too much trouble.  For the record, processing a stack of 24 4x6 photos from the ADF was no problem -though each photo was rotated a bit (oddly enough, when I scanned a bunch of photos at once, they were much less rotated than in the examples below).  I think I could have processed more photos at once (there was space); that just happened to be the size of the stack I grabbed.

For the time being, I’m focusing on scanner settings (not the physical feed/rotation problem) to see if a decent image can even be obtained from the Auto Document Feeder (since the whole point of this experiment is being able to load a stack of photos for automatic scanning).

I spent a lot of time scanning a single photo using various set-ups from the “Canon IJ  Scan Utility.”  All the scans below were from the same (bad) original photo from January of 2007 via Flickr printing (the physical photo was sent to me 7 years ago by a family member).  So the original image is of poor quality but should serve well for comparative analysis.  I purposefully used a “sub-par” print to illustrate various things like moire/banding, color correction, etc.

In the end, none of the scans from the Auto Document Feeder were really acceptable. Some people might be satisfied by the results using “Custom Scan, Source: Document, Apply Auto Document Fix, Reduce Moire” or a similar custom set-up using the ScanGear option (which is similar to Canon’s previous “use device driver” type menu), but I wouldn’t spend a lot of time trying to archive the entire family photo album collection if this is as good as the quality gets.

For only $99 I may end up keeping the MX922 because I like that it has a LAN option (I can hard wire it to my network so everybody in the house can use it), but I’ll have to see if I think the printer is as good as my MP990 (which I think does a great job for “snapshot” photos; I’ve got a Canon Pro 9000 mkII for my large format and “pro” photo printing).

After all this research, time, and work, I am wondering if the Canon scanner software can be hacked.  It would seem that ALL the limitations I ran into were software based (limited available selections/settings for scans utilizing the ADF source).  Magic Lantern has done AMAZING things to unleash the potential of Canon’s DSLR cameras, so perhaps there is a hack that could unleash all the potential of Canon’s scanners in a similar manner.  If only I had the skillz.  If this is up your alley, please leave a comment or send me an e-mail!

For now though, scanning a stack of photos automatically from an auto feeder remains a pipe dream.

Scans from the ADF source (auto document feed) on the Canon MX922 scanner (click for 300dpi image)…

For comparison, this first photo is scanned from my older Canon MP990 platen using typical photo settings from the Device Driver menu

fromMP990Photo

Also for comparison, this photo is scanned from the Canon MX922 platen (vs. the auto document feed) using a typical “photo” setting in Canon IJ Scan Utility (the same scan utility used for the remainder of the photos below)

PhotoScan_20141028_0001

Custom Scan, Source: Document, Auto Fix, Reduce Moire

CustScan_DocSrc_AutoDocFix_ReduceMoire__20141028_0001

Custom Scan, Source: Document, No Auto Fix, Reduce Moire

CustScan_DocSrc_NoAutoDocFix_ReduceMoire__20141028_0002

Custom Scan, Source: Auto, Auto Size, Auto Rez, Image Correct

CustScan_AutoSrc_AutoSize_AutoRez_ImageCorrect__20141028_0001

Auto Scan, Image Correct

AutoScanwithImageCorrect_20141028_0001

Auto Scan, No Image Correct

AutoScanNOImageCorrect_20141028_0001

Scan Gear Advanced, Color Matching Profile (all filters off)

ScanGear_ColorMatchingProfile_20141028_0001

Scan Gear Advanced, Recommended Color Profile (all filters off)

ScanGear_RecommendedColorProfile_20141028_0001

Scan Gear Advanced, No Color Profile (all filters off)

ScanGear_NoneColorProfile_20141028_0001

Scan Gear Basic, No Color Profile

ScanGear_Basic_NoneColorProfile_20141028_0001

Scan Gear Basic, Recommended Color Profile with auto Correct

ScanGear_Basic_recommendColorProfile_autoCorrect_20141028_0001

Scan from Windows’ Devices Menu (right-click scan from Windows 7 Devices Menu using custom created profile for “source: feeder”)

WindowsScannerProfile

 

archiving family photos
multi-feed photo scanner
photo archiving
auto photo scanner
scan multiple photos at once
scan stack of photos